RF Deck Information

After constructing 30+ RF decks so far, these are some of the observations I made:


Initial testing of the deck (see test setup to the right):

When mounting the deck, use all 8 of the supplied 4-40 machine screws and flat washers, or your metric equivalent (the washers will help distribute the mounting forces). Get them firm, but not so tight you damage the board material, which is soft and thin. Use heat sink compound between the copper spreader and the heat sink...not too thick, just a thin layer will do.

All assembled/tested RF decks have already been set up in the manner described below; no additional adjustments are necessary for operation at 1296 MHz.

The power supply used to set up the amplifier was current limited to 3 amps, and that's important when setting IDQ. If you are doing this yourself with any LDMOS device on any band, and it gets away from you, that current limiting will save the device. Fuses are not fast enough. The termination on the output is a 30w cellular type (no drive power for this test, of course).

While making the IDQ setting at 50V VDD, the input match is observed with a scalar analyzer and optimized at 1296 MHz (where most of us will be using this). The two parameters affecting the input match were IDQ and trimming pads. Usually, only one or two of the input trimming pads were needed with IDQ set between 1.6 and 1.8 amps. The inset below shows the measured optimization.

On the output side, most of the decks required just one or two of the output trimming pads to be connected.

Making the connections to the deck

This alternate method shows the coax pre-mounted to .020 tin mounting strips, and because I must install coax when I set up the decks, and then remove it, it is the method I use most of the time.

Cut your tin strips to .375 by 1.375 (3/8 by 1 3/8). Mark and drill the hole locations for pass-through (for the screws) by comparing the strip to the board hole pattern.

Prepare your coax and solder the shield to the tin strip, aligned as shown in the photo. Now you install your coax using the two mounting screws at either the input or output, whichever you're working on. Once the assembly is fastened in place, you can solder down the center conductor.